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Wow Place #260: Katz’s Deli, New York City

We’re all familiar with that iconic scene in the movie, When Harry Met Sally, when Sally (played by Meg Ryan) enthusiastically fakes an orgasm in the middle of a New York deli, to Harry’s (Billy Crystal’s) eternal embarrassment. It’s as cringeworthy a scene as you’ll ever see in a film – and one of the most hilarious. Fun fact: the older woman who says to the waitperson, “I’ll have what she’s having” is Estelle Reiner, the director’s mother.

I loved this scene so much that I had to eat at the place where it was filmed. That place is Katz’s Delicatessen, also known as Katz’s of New York City. A kosher-style deli founded in 1888, it sits on the corner of Houston and Ludlow Streets on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Popular for its famous pastrami on rye, Katz’s serves 15,000 lb. of pastrami a week along with 8,000 lb. of corned beef, 2,000 lb. of salami and 4,000 hot dogs. By all accounts, Kat’s is the #1 deli in NYC.

Interestingly, the restaurant’s original name wasn’t Katz’s, it was Iceland Brothers, named after Morris and Hyman Iceland, the founders. When Willy Katz came along as a partner in 1903, the establishment changed its name to Iceland & Katz. Sometime later, Willy’s cousin Benny joined him to buy out the deli, forming what we now know as Katz’s.

One can only imagine what the Lower East Side must have been like in the early 20th Century, with its millions of newly-immigrated families from all over the world. Katz’s become a community hub, serving franks and beans to the neighborhood every Friday evening. During the peak of Yiddish theater, the restaurant was frequented by an array of actors, singers and comedians. During WWII, Katz’s made a practice of sending food to the armed forces abroad; they even coined a company slogan, “Send a Salami To Your Boy in The Army.”

Always innovating, Katz’s Delicatessen in September 2021 rolled out its signature, gin-inspired pickles. Yep, you heard that right. The brine features juniper and cubeb berries with an additional emphasis on coriander. Looking for a drink and a pickle? Why not kill two birds with one stone!

Now, for those are you who know me and are wondering, “Why would a vegan eat at a Jewish deli known for its meat sandwiches?” my answer is, “I wasn’t always plant based.” When I first visited Katz’s 15-20 years ago, I pretty much followed my taste buds wherever they took me…and the taste of pastrami on rye at Katz’s Delicatessen is pretty darn mind blowing. In spite of my shift in diet over the last decade, however, I would definitely visit Katz’s again. For the pickles, of course (vegan!) but especially for the atmosphere. I mean, why else do we travel if not to sit in a restaurant with old-timey pictures on the wall, mingling with the locals and having a truly authentic experience? As an extra bonus, Katz’s even marks the table where Meg and Billy sat. Overhead there’s a big sign proclaiming, “Where Harry met Sally…hope you had what she had! Enjoy!”

(Note: I grappled for a moment with my decision whether or not to include a meat restaurant in my Wow Place postings. After all, the food at Katz’s doesn’t really align with my current values. But then I thought about all the times I’ve chatted with someone who had wildly different political or religious opinions from my own. And you know what? Those were fascinating conversations! We listened to each other. We agreed to disagree in some places. We found commonality in others. Inevitably I learned things that I wouldn’t have gathered by staying in my own news, echo chamber. If nothing else, I honed my communication skills! What’s an out-of-your-comfort-zone place you can visit this week? Who’s an out-of-your-comfort-zone person you can arrange a chat with this weekend?)