I’m not sure if I like India anymore.
These are words I never would have imagined uttering back in my 20s and 30s, when India represented the height of exoticism for me. I first traveled to India in 1988 as part of an 11-month, around-the-world trip. It wasn’t a country I was planning to visit. India just happened.
I remember clearly sitting in a travel agency in Bangkok, at a crossroad, wondering if I should go home to California (across the Pacific to the east) or keep traveling to across Asia to the sub-continent (India/Nepal) to the west. In the end, I decided that I would kick myself if I missed this part of the world while here, out of fear of the poverty (and of getting sick).
Was there poverty? Oh my yes, but it wasn’t as bad as I expected, especially after traveling in developing countries like Malaysia, Thailand and Burma. Did I get sick? Oh my yes – an “amoebic cyst,” whatever that is. Needless to say I survived, thanks to some excellent antibiotics.
Was it worth it? Absolutely! Everyone should see India at least once – its glittering temples and hillside fortresses, its Maharajah palaces, its vibrant markets full of bangles and spices, its dazzling cuisine, its colorful saris. I’ve stayed on a houseboat in Kerala. I’ve observed the burning ghats in Veranasi. I’ve hiked in the Himalayas. I’ve been to not one but two Indian weddings. India is one of a kind.
AND, it’s hard! Simply walking down the street is a challenge; sidewalks are few and far between. Every five minutes, a tuktuk will pull up and ask you where you want to go, often driving along next to you for 20 minutes, continuing their pitch even as you repeatedly wave them away. Walk into a market and shop keepers will block your path, trying to compel you to enter their stall. Everything is a negotiation. Baksheesh (tip/bribes) are common. And the traffic is crazy. You can pretty much count on getting stuck in a traffic jam at least once or twice a day, not surprising in a country where there appear to be no lanes or traffic laws. Driving the wrong way down the street? – absolutely fine, if you can get away with it.
Crossing a road is taking your life into your hands.
So yes, I have a love-hate relationship with the streets of India But boy, does this country have some wonderful hotels, like the marvelous Umaid Bhawan in Jaipur, Rajasthan! This is a place that makes me want to visit India again, at least for a stay-cation.
Established in 1993, the Hotel Umaid Bhawan (not to be confused with the similarly-named “Umaid Bhawan Palace”) is a “heritage hotel,” meaning it used to be someone’s elegant residence. According to their site, this “flagship hotel is run by the erstwhile royal family from Borunda.”
That sounds exotic as hell, doesn’t it?
I just love wandering around the Umaid Bhawan, exploring its MANY well-appointed lounges, paintings, and historical photos, its carved balconies, open terraces, attractive courtyards and lush, green lawns. Around every corner, it seems like there’s a new discovery to made, including several Hindu shrines and a gorgeous little swimming pool. On the roof is a pleasant restaurant where you can eat foot-long masala dosas for breakfast and watch monkeys cavorting on the nearby rooftops.
The website puts it best: “The ambience of the hotel is nothing short of a luxurious palace.” And you get all this for as little as $72/night (off season)!
So would I visit India again, now that I’m in my 60s and the exoticism of the country has faded a bit for me? Yeah, probably. If I don’t have to leave the hotel!
(Have you ever found yourself at the crossroads of your life, deciding if you should go left or right, east or west? It’s a tough position to be in, and also kind of exhilarating. I wish I could tell you what to do in those circumstances, ie. “Trust your gut” or “Check in with your intuition.” Some people make a lengthy Pros-and-Cons list. Others just flip a coin. I will say, if you feel like you’ll regret one choice, then perhaps the other choice is the one for you. Regret is a terrible thing to live with. And don’t forget – life is long – you can always come back. This doesn’t have be your ONLY time chance at this situation. FOMO isn’t necessarily the best choice indicator!)
(Dave Blum is the creator of Dr. Clue Treasure Hunts, www.drclue.com, a teambuilding company featuring over 150 treasure hunt locations worldwide. He has visited over 40 countries in his 60+ years of life and plans to keep traveling until he gives up the ghost. Dave lives in Northern California with his wife, Donica, and their 18-year-old Maine Coon, Ava — an indoor cat who dreams of one day escaping captivity and exploring her own neighborhood Wow Places.)